A blog about my adventures as a teacher and a traveler.
At the moment, my focus is on two trips to the village of Pommern, Tanzania,
in Africa with the organization Global Volunteers -- one in 2010 and one in 2012.



Thursday, August 19, 2010

School on my Mind

As I go back to work tomorrow for teacher in-service days in preparation for a brand new school year, it's only reasonable that I have school on my mind tonight. And since that's where I spent a lot of my time in Tanzania, it's time for me to share some of the events of my first full week at Pommern Primary School. Prior to our weekend at Ruaha, I had only spent a day and a half at the school -- just enough time to get my feet wet and develop some first impressions, nothing more. If you need a reminder about those impressions, revisit the entry from July 15.

Perhaps the most impressive thing about education in rural Africa was the formality in the atmosphere. The whole class always stands as the teacher enters the room, greeting the teacher in unison. Students also stand when called upon to answer questions in class. And each day as I was about to leave the room, the students would recite in unison, "Thank you, teacher, for teaching us. Welcome again!" (The Swahili word for "welcome," karibu, is used very frequently and is used to mean not only "welcome," but also "come" or "come in," as well as "you're welcome" in response to a thank you.)


Play a clip of the students' send-off recitation!

In addition to the classroom formality, I also observed a great deal of respect from student to teacher. Students often addressed the teachers with the word shikamoo, a Swahili greeting that has no literal translation to English but is a respectful greeting for one's elders. The response to shikamoo is marahaba, which basically implies "thank you for your respectful greetings." When a female student says shikamoo, it is often even accompanied by a curtsy.

Students are frequently instructed to complete tasks for the teacher or sent on errands. They are regularly responsible for erasing the chalkboard and for running to retrieve items from the office. Each day, students are also responsible for keeping their schoolyard and schoolrooms clean. They sweep both inside and out (using those tree branches I wrote about yesterday!), and they water the flowers in the courtyard with containers they bring from home.

Students watering the flowerbeds in the courtyard outside my Standard VII classroom

The respect extends far. I never once witnessed a student disobey a direct order from a teacher, like is all too common here in the United States. Interestingly, the respect didn't seem to really be of the "mutual" sort that has come to be normal in the U.S. The teacher almost never *asks,* but rather commands, a student to do something. The words "please" and "thank you" are not used by the teacher either, though that is partly a societal reflection as those words are much less common in the general language than they are in English, as well. And again, whatever is told of the student is immediately, and without question, done. Furthermore, If a student is in trouble with a teacher for any reason, the student stands in front of the teacher but does not meet the teacher's eye. The student makes no attempt to walk away while being lectured, or even during a long silence, until the teacher specifically dismisses the student.

Although enthralled with the formality and respect, things weren't perfect in the classroom either. What I described as a "buzz of activity" in the classroom on that first day I was there, grew much louder, more frequent, and more distracting by the next week. Attendance and extreme tardiness were issues, and cheating on daily exercises was extremely common. I was paired with a Tanzanian teacher, who was almost always in the room with me, so I was a "guest teacher" and not responsible for the overall running of the classroom.

The biggest frustration for me regarding the less desirable behaviors was that they were usually completely ignored by my co-teacher. He would occasionally tell the students to be quiet, which they would do for a short time, but then the noise level would start to grow again, distracting the students from the exercises they were supposed to be completing. Interestingly, on the few occasions that Edward came to the classroom to visit me, the students were so quiet you could have heard a pin drop! Edward is what we might call a "big potato," a VIP in the community who everyone respects very highly.

As for the attendance and tardiness, I never saw attendance taken. Standard VII actually had about 84 students enrolled, though the typical number in attendance was somewhere around 65 or 70 in the morning and around 50 in the afternoon. According to Edward, however, students were supposed to be present both times (I initially thought that perhaps the afternoon session was optional) and that attendance should have been recorded.

And in a society that is not run by the clock the way America is, I didn't expect minimal tardiness to matter. A "school bell" is rung signaling students that the next class is beginning (they sometimes get a short break between their one-hour class periods as the teachers change rooms), but it's not like American school bells that signal you are late for class even if you arrive just one second after. However, students were sometimes 10 or 15 minutes late to a class period and a half hour or even an hour or more late to the school day. Most of the time, my co-teacher paid no attention to this matter, so I ignored it likewise.

The "school bell" is actually just the ring of metal pictured above, which is struck
by a stick from the tree to produce the "bell" noise

The schedule at the primary school changed every day. Though the students always had 5 one-hour class periods every morning and another one-hour class period of English each afternoon, the order of the morning class periods was different depending on the day. This is an intriguing idea because I know even in America it can be frustrating to teach a 1st period class only to have certain students regularly show up late. With a rotation, though, a different subject is taught "1st period" each day, meaning that habitually tardy students don't always miss the same thing.

On Thursday of that first full week, my co-teacher and I had English first at 8 a.m., then math second at 9 a.m. On that particular day, unlike any other time, my co-teacher grew upset with the tardiness. At 8:30, only about half of the enrolled students were there, and he began to lecture the tardy students in groups outside the classroom before allowing them to enter. Finally around 9:00, three boys arrived a whole hour late, escorted by another teacher. They were similarly scolded, and though I had suspected that "punishment" in Tanzania probably didn't mean "detention" the way it would here, I was still unprepared for what followed, as another student was sent to fetch a switch from the office. Each boy received two or three whacks on the backside -- which looked and sounded painful, though in true African way, none of the boys expressed their pain out loud -- before being sent on into the classroom. Interestingly, the tardiness continued every day following that one, and never again was a big deal made of it. What's a person to make of that?

We'll save talk about the cheating for another entry because, a) there's lots more to tell about the actual educational process in rural Tanzania, and b) I should probably get to bed so I can get up in the morning for my first day back at work here. Lala salama! (Sleep well!)

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Resourcefulness in Rural Africa

One of the neatest things I experienced while in Pommern was the incredible (to my American perspective, anyway) resourcefulness of the people who lived there.

Don't have a hammer? No worries -- just use a large rock. I witnessed a rock being used to pound a nail holding a plumb line into the mortar of the brick building at the kitchen construction site.

Need some scaffolding to stand on at the construction site? An old window frame with the shutters opened to prop it up functions very well.

See that old window frame leaning against the building at the lower left?
Tip it on its side and open both "shutters." Perfect scaffolding!

No pencil sharpener at school? Rub the place that needs sharpened along the cement windowsill, and you'll find more lead.

Who needs a ruler to make straight lines in the classroom? Just lay a pen on its side and trace its edge.

Have some cleaning to do? A tree branch with its sticks and leaves (or needles) still on it makes a fantastic broom or rake.

Moses (chief handyman/construction worker) using a branch to rake the leaves in the grass.
The same branch also functioned as a broom both indoors and out.

Want a ball to play soccer with? Wad up a bunch of old plastic sacks and tie them together with some twine. You've got a perfectly functional ball -- and you can even make it whatever size you want!

A makeshift soccer ball -- it worked just as well as anything, too!
(photo taken by Amy)


I even learned a new game from the girls at the primary school. It's kind of the opposite of Monkey in the Middle. In that game, the person who is "it" stands between two other players who throw a ball back and forth and tries to intercept the ball. In the new game I learned, the goal of the person in the middle is to *avoid* getting hit by the ball as the other two threw it back and forth. It seemed only girls played this game, and it was amazing to watch their agility as they dodged from side to side and often even jumped up in the air to straddle the ball. I wish I had taken video of the game, but unfortunately I never thought to do so. Guess that's another reason I'll just have to go back some day!

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Tanzanians say the darndest things!

After several long blog posts, I took a short break from writing more, and then I went on a couple of week-long trips, one to volunteer at my church camp for a week and one to go on vacation with my sister to Chicago and Cedar Point Amusement Park in Ohio. These travels took me away from blogging even longer. Now a new school year is just about to start! In any case, it's time to see if I can get back in the routine of blogging....

We in America live an abundant life. Even those who belong to the middle or lower socioeconomic classes have far more to their names than most rural Africans do. The simplicity of life in Pommern led to some questions for us about the abundance of America.

Depicting the simplicity of the village of Pommern: Dirt roads, a bicycle transporting
a load of firewood, and one of the shops in the market area

On the very first night in Pommern, a village woman asked my teammate Amy: "Is it true what they say? Is it true that every American really has their own car?" The woman asked the question in complete seriousness, and though taken aback, Amy's response had to be "yes," that most every American does own a car. And that's not just one car per household, which in and of itself would be ultimate riches in Africa. We have one car per person....and in some families there are even more cars than people! Coming from a village where the only motor vehicles ever seen were the Global Volunteers vehicle, a vehicle for the Lutheran church and one for the Catholic church, a handful of motorbikes, and a bus that comes through Pommern early every morning to take villagers to Iringa Town before returning to Pommern late in the afternoon, it's no wonder Amy's response left the woman unable to comprehend such incredible wealth. The interchange left me suddenly feeling very wasteful.

Mohammed washing the GV jeep -- to be washing a car was a strange sight in Pommern!

Two days later, while I was working at the construction site, I was walking back to the "lumber yard" to get more boards to carry down to the school, along with a couple of my teammates and quite a few students from the secondary school. Teo was among the secondary students and asked me where I was from. Now, when the villagers and especially the secondary students ask that question, they don't just want to know that I'm from the United States. They want to know specifically what state -- and if they don't recognize that particular one, they want an explanation of where in the country it's located. Pretty incredible, given that I would hasten to suggest many of my readers have no idea where in Africa the *country* of Tanzania is, let alone its individual regions (like our states).

In any case, I told Teo I was from Iowa, and then went on to explain that it is the state just south of Minnesota. The people of Pommern know about Minnesota because Global Volunteers is based there and because several church congregations in Pommern and the surrounding area have partnerships with churches in the Twin Cities area of Minnesota. I also explained that Iowa is known for the corn it produces, and I added that Iowa's cornfields are much larger than the small homestead cornfields in Pommern. Teo pondered this for a moment and then asked me, "You mean, like an acre?" After taking a quick moment to recognize the gap in our life experiences, I explained again, "No, more like hundreds and hundreds of acres." And I further explained that the fields are farmed with machinery and that the corn crop is used throughout the country. I didn't even try to explain how most of the corn isn't even for human consumption but instead for animal feed, ethanol, and so on. Yet again, the abundance and prosperity of America stood in stark contrast to the basic, simple life in Pommern.

Teammates Kendra & Jack; Teo; teammate Sonia; and another secondary student
whose name I cannot think of (perhaps one of my teammates can enlighten me?)
(photo taken by Amy)

Friday, July 16, 2010

Weekend at Ruaha

On Friday morning, I returned to the primary school for another English class, followed by a math class, with Pendael and my Standard VII students. Then after lunch, Amy, Jack, and I took off for a weekend at Ruaha National Park. A park employee named Alex picked us up at the mission house in Pommern and drove us 3 and a half hours to Ruaha Hilltop Lodge. It was a very difficult ride over rough, unpaved roads, and the temperature increased as we declined in elevation. I think I inhaled half the dust in Tanzania along the way, too.

The ride was definitely worth it, however, as the lodge was absolutely breathtaking. We experienced amazing African hospitality, hot running water, and fantastic food. Situated high on a large hill, as the name would suggest, we had an incredible view of the trees and plains of the Great Rift Valley, with mountains in the distance. The lodge is composed of a bunch of huts with thatched roofs. Each guest room is a separate hut (10 or 12 of them, I believe), plus a main lodge with two levels.
Hilltop Lodge, as seen from the road below

The view from the second floor of the main lodge.

A panoramic view over the Great Rift Valley, taken from the balcony in the above picture.

When we arrived, we were immediately greeted with glasses of tamarind juice to calm our stomachs and warm, wet washcloths to wipe our faces. As soon as we entered the main lodge, we were also treated to fresh, warm, salty popcorn. Yum! After finishing our juice and popcorn, we were escorted to our rooms (aka, huts!) and our bags were carried for us. I had a hut all to myself with a king size bed and an attached bathroom complete with running water. Remember that at this time, we had no running water at the mission house, so this was an especially welcome treat!

Three of the guest huts at Hilltop Lodge. Amy and Jack stayed in the
one on the far right. My hut was hidden behind theirs in this shot.

After we settled in, took HOT showers, drank COLD pop, and enjoyed the beautiful view, we were served dinner -- a 3-course meal consisting of cucumber soup (which even I, the picky eater, really liked!) and rolls for the first course; seasoned rice, beef, and potatoes for the main course; and bananas drizzled with orange sauce for dessert. It was delectable! Oh, and did I mention that on that first night we were the only guests at the lodge and therefore had all the attention to ourselves? Awesome!! The whole thing felt like the reward challenges in the reality TV show Survivor, where you are whisked away to some wonderful place for exciting adventures. I'm not trying to imply that Pommern is really like Survivor, but there was definitely a stark contrast between the two locations!

On Saturday morning, we awoke early, ate a fantastic breakfast, and set out on our game drive through the national park. Let's play Two Truths and a Lie about the game drive, shall we? If you don't know this game, you are going to read three statements and decide which of the three is NOT true. Ready? Here we go! 1: We sat just 10 feet from a lion that was resting in the grass. 2: We watched a crocodile eat a baby hippo. 3: Our vehicle was charged by an angry elephant. Got your answer picked out?

Okay, number two is the lie, but we did see both crocs and hippos. Sitting so close to a lion was absolutely amazing. Thankfully she was in a pretty lazy mood and wasn't interested in dinner at the moment. Another time a little while on, we sat about 20 feet from a group of 5 lions. That was neat, too. As for the elephant, we were passing through an area where there were lots of trees, and an elephant was just off the road but hidden by the bush. He definitely thought we were intruding in his space and let us know -- angry ivory tusks coming at us and a loud honk of his trunk. Thankfully we had a fantastic driver who quickly floored us forward and out of harm's way!

We saw all kinds of animals, though not quite everything Ruaha has to offer -- no leopards or cheetahs, for example -- but we did see many other creatures. I absolutely love getting to see such fascinating wildlife....in the wild, not in a zoo. I think I'll let the pictures and accompanying captions tell the rest of the story of our game drive. Enjoy!

And....we're off! Our fantastic driver (whose name I never caught)
and Alex, our guide, as we left Hilltop Lodge.

We saw these impala before we even reached the park boundary. If only we
had known then how many zillions of impala we were going to see that day,
this would not have been nearly as exciting!

The sign welcoming us to Ruaha National Park, the second largest park in Africa.

This is the open-top jeep vehicle in which we rode. Jack is sitting inside. The
vehicle allowed us to stand up for a better view while still keeping us in the shade.

This is a little random, but where we were parked in the above picture (while Alex and
our driver paid the park entrance fees) they were redoing the parking lot lines. This
happens a little differently when the lines are stones buried in a trench in the dirt.
These guys were working VERY hard!

Just inside the park gates, this is me above the Great Ruaha River.

All right, if you insist, I suppose heeding that advice would be wise....

Crikey! Those are some crocodiles in the water!

Hippos, having fun swimming.

Pardon the camp song here, but I couldn't resist....
In the beginning God made the seas, and the forest filled with trees;
He built the mountains up so high, and up above He made the sky.
God's fingerprints are everywhere, just to show how much He cares;
And in the middle He had some fun, He made the HIPPO that weighs a ton!
Hip, hip, HIP-PO-POT-A-MUS, hip, hip, hooray, God made all of us;
Hip, hip, HIP-PO-POT-A-MUS, hip, hip, hooray, God made all of us!

Our first giraffe sighting! The Swahili word for giraffe is twiga. Very fitting.

Giraffes are my favorite African animal. If you look closely, you can see that
this giraffe decided to pose for the picture along with me -- how sweet!

Panoramic view over Ruaha National Park.

A baobab tree. The bark at the bottom of all of the baobab
trees we saw had been eaten away by elephants.


Neat fact: There is an entire town in the middle of Ruaha National Park. I think mostly
rangers and their families live here, but the town is complete with a school.

A few people outside their homes in the town; a baboon watches from its
perch on the tree brances.


This is a male kudu, a very impressive looking species of antelope.
When they walk, they strut like roosters.


A female waterbuck, another variety of antelope.

The two lighter colored antelope are gazelles. The darker one in front is an impala.

This is a large rodent called a rock hyrax.

The view from our jeep mid-morning. I was thankful for the clouds that day as they
kept the temperature cooler and shielded us from the hot sun.

Zebras, my second favorite African animal.

Another zebra, standing in the road ahead of us.

Our first of several lion sightings!

Another crocodile, this time out of the water. He looks vicious. I'll keep my distance.

A hippo in the water in the foreground; a saddle bill stork in the background.

A sausage tree, as it is affectionately known. The "sausages" are actually
poisonous fruit, though the fruit is used in African herbal medicine as a
cure for a wide variety of illnesses.

Another lion sighting; this time we got to see a male! Did you know that the Swahili
word for lion is simba? Amazing what The Lion King will teach you!

THIS is the lion that was only 10 feet away from us. Nice kitty....!

Proving how close we were to the lioness -- SO COOL!

A vervet monkey. This was my first time seeing monkeys in the wild. They're such acrobats!

More impala. Three grown females and a very young calf.


Left: The flat-top trees that look like they are straight out of The Lion King are acacia trees.
Right: A cactus grows amongst the other trees.


We saw a herd of HUNDREDS of African buffalo. We had to wait for the whole
herd to cross the road in front of us before we could move forward. They
looked very formidable in such a large group like that!

Me standing in the jeep; the herd crosses in front of us.

Another vervet monkey. And no, rafiki does not mean "monkey"
in Swahili. Instead, the word rafiki means "friend."

These are the 5 lions that were about 20 feet away from us. They were very calm!

I absolutely love giraffes. They are so majestic. This picture is
one of my favorites from Ruaha.


Warthogs. Not to be confused with Hogwarts. And they are downright ugly. Sorry, Pumba.

This is where we stopped to eat lunch. Very nice. And there were even bathrooms!

A river bed, just beyond the hut in the previous picture. It was the dry season
in Tanzania when we were there. It rains a lot from December to April, but
hardly at all the rest of the months. Jack and Amy are taking a stroll.

Looking the other direction, we could see giraffes in the distance.

Guinea fowl. Goofy looking birds.

A female kudu.

Male impala.

Right after we got away from the elephant that charged us, we saw
plenty more that treated us much more nicely!

An elephant eating tree leaves.

Another river bed. We climbed down a large slippery rock to get
to this spot. Amy watches a giraffe.


Giraffes, baboons, and impala along the river bed. There were elephants farther down, too.

A termite mound. Crazy what little insects can build!

More zebra, including a foal.

This is a jackal, a type of canine similar to a coyote. Jackals are carnivores.

This is a dik-dik, the smallest species of antelope. A full-grown dik-dik is only about 2 feet
tall. For some reason, my sister and her friends are fascinated by these cute little guys.

Breaking into song once again....
Never smile at a crocodile;
No, you can't get friendly with a crocodile;
Don't be taken in by his welcome grin;
He's imagining how well you'd fit within his skin.
Never smile at a crocodile;
Never dip your hat and stop to talk awhile;
Never run, walk away, say good-night, not good-day;
Clear the aisle but never smile at Mister Crocodile!


As we ended our 10-hour game drive, we again crossed the large bridge over the
Great Ruaha River. The hippos and crocodiles had moved out of the water.
Those 4 lumps that look like big rocks are hippos at rest.

Two hippos on their feet, walking back toward the river.

What a great day we had! Karibu tena means "welcome again," or in other words
"come again." The word karibu is used extremely frequently in Swahili to mean
"welcome," "you're welcome," "come in," and so on. I miss hearing that word!!